May 30, 2012
I feel like I am getting ready for battle. The troops are preparing for a surprise midnight attack. I just put on my warm clothes. Doesn't help much when they are cold from sitting out. Next time I keep them in the sleeping bag. Besides the cold, I feel ready.
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Now that my little asthma episode is over I'm ready to write about my climb ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP! Samuel and I left around 12:15am, a little later than we planned and after most everyone else departed. No matter - I didn't know anyone else at camp so the competitive side didn't come out. We trudged along at a slow pace, but eventually caught up with people. Half an hour up there were people already struggling, a few vomiters and one woman saying over and over "I'm doing bad". i assume the altitude got the best of them. We continued along with the "no breaks until Hans Meyer Cave" plan. Along the way we passed several parties resting. At this point I was still chit chatting with Samuel and whoever we passed. I felt pretty darn good. We blew through Williams Point (5100m) and made it to the cave. We rested for a bit, had some water and then Samuel started getting a little pushy. We left the cave even before people who arrived some time before us. Then the very few times I asked for a breather he gave me barely a minute and started going again. The part between the cave and Gillman's Point on the crater rim is the most physically challenging. At this point I was leading the groups coming from our camp, with 2 New Yorkers close behind. We took turns passing each other the whole leg. This part was definitely a challenge, I can't deny that, but up until Gillman's Point I was doing and feeling great. It helped that it was dark out so I couldn't see the gradient of the slope or how much was left to go. Just stars when I dared to take my eyes off the scree and bouldered pass. After Gillman's was when I really started to feel fatigued. Each summit on the rim hid the fact that right behind it was a higher one. For most of it we were walking on ice and snow or in thin paths between them. The fake outs were the worst. And then I thought Stella's Point was much closer to Uhuru. It's like the end of a race when you're so close to the finish you realize just how tired you are. But I wasn't even close! And then I could see it - the Uhuru sign. And the sun coming up all at the same time. I've never been so relieved, happy, accomplished and proud. I got there at 6:30, only 6 hours and 15 minutes after I left. And I tied for first to the summit with a group from the other base camp. My camera battery froze so there aren't many pictures of the top. Some things are just meant to be memories for those who experience them, I suppose. I did get the proof photo though! After a few pictures we turned around to head back, encouraging and congratulating those we passed.
All was still going well until we got to the scree. Even though it screams erosion, the popular way to descend is to ski down the mountain side. I did not like this. I felt like I was going to wipe out and dust was everywhere. The dust was the trigger. I started to feel that elephant climb on my chest, my ability to breathe disappeared and each breath burned. And the coughing made it even harder to breathe. I sat down to wait it out but Samuel was eager to get back to camp. He didn't like that I was taking the long and slow way, walking back on the zig zagging path we took up and insisted that we run down the ash. I told him I'd try again, but the burnong was worse and I sat for a bit and went by the path again but really couldn't breathe. Samuel had my pack and had abandoned me for the scree. So I sat, wheezing, coughing and not really breathing well as others threw dust in my face. Finally Samuel came back to me and I had my inhaler. When he realized what the problem was he felt pretty bad and stayed with me for the rest of the descent not really saying anything. We finally made it down, had some juice and I passed out for a bit. I'm breathing fine now, but the cough is still there. Lunch is good though, pancakes and french toast. And I just climbed Kilimanjaro. How annoyed can I be about a cough, really?
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After a little nap I awoke feeling happy and accomplished. All afternoon I've been composing blog entries, emails and facebook messages to send tomorrow night. The walk to Horombo Huts was pretty uneventful. We walked through the saddle again, but on the adjacent road. Still a desert so nothing new to see. A few picnic spots and helipads, which Rongai doesn't have. Following the saddle we went back into the moorlands. This time there were the funky lolebelias, unlike the ones in Ethiopia at lower altitudes. The road was very eroded and full of large rocks. made for difficult travel, definitely ankle twisting potential. Glad I only did that road one way. The whole walk (13k) to Horomobo I was coughing, wheezing and burning from the earlier episode. I hope it's better by morning so I can have an all star finish. the road is supposed to be nice and foresty (and downhill) tomorrow. I'm pretty excited about it. It's been a lovely week and a real life changer, but I want a shower and a bed. And a beer.
During the saddle walk Samuel and I had some nice conversation. He wanted to know about America's indigenous people and what happened to them. It spurred a conversation about poverty and homelessness in America then into Muslims in America, religious tolerance and what's going on in the Middle East. A great thoughtful chat.
The Horombo Huts is a big camp. The porters and workers are really loud and disturbing. As i write this one just kicked my tent. There are a lot of people here. The noise distracts from the beautiful view outside my tent and cloud forest. I am so happy I did Rongai with 2 nights all alone in the beautiful wilderness, camping the way it should be. Even last night wasn't bad incomparison to this circus.
Dinner is here. Carrot soup, fries, rice and beans. Running out of the good stuff I guess. I'm not all that hungry anyway. During dinner Samuel stopped in for debrief asking for more tips than Zara recommends. I reminded him I'm a volunteer and I'll do what I can. I'm less in love with TZ than I was a few days ago. It's kind of all the same.
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