Kilimanjaro Day 1

May 26, 2012

 

Day 1 on the mountain. I'm writing this in the setting sun looking at what appears as a chocolate volcano cake with melting icing dripping from the top. All day the clouds have hidden her from me, but about 10 minutes from making camp she showed herself. Unlike the intimidating view from the sky, she's just majestic, strong and beautiful. Last night I kept waking up about every 2 hours hoping it was time to go. When 7:00 finally arrived I rushed to breakfast, ate a tone because when you're hiking all day that's acceptable. At 8:30 we loaded the car and set out to the north end of the mountain. On the way, my friend Spencer's (who just came back from TZ) evaluation that Tanzania is 5% richer than Ethiopia and it makes all the difference in the world began to make sense. People are still poor and agriculture is still number one, but the quality of life is improved. The homes are much better quality, the people are fatter, less arguing/fighting, less idle hands, healthier land and lots less trash. As I was waiting for Samuel to get the permit I stood outside the car. for over an hour no one asked me for money, no one said anything inappropriate, no crowds and the only people who spoke to me just said hello. I found myself starting conversations and being chatty - something I haven't done in Ethiopia for a long time. I came to Tanzania looking to lose my bitterness and to love life and the world again. I think it's happening. Also at this rest stop I told Pemba, the driver, about my life and work in Ethiopia. he then told me all about the work I could do in Tanzania. The porters apparently lack knowledge in HIV and need to take classes in it (along with AMS, history, English and technical areas) to eventually be promoted to guide. Pemba and Samuel like to compare Ethiopia to Tanzania - we talked about tourism, HIV, daily life, FGM and why Ethiopians are such good runners. We also talked about Obama. I guess ever since he supports gay marriage he's lost some respect in Africa. I told Pemba that it shouldn't matter. Then he changed the subject. We then discussed Egypt, Libya, and the Arab Spring. We talked about Mugabe in Zimbabwe. They think a united Africa can work. I still have my doubts.

 

After the ride we stopped at the Rongai gate to do paperwork. I found some kids to talk to. I taught them a few camp songs and games. Victoria (the oldest girl, 11) taught me a Halloween song. We shared biscuits and she told me her love of math and dream to be a bank manager. then I realized that it was the first time in a long time that I willingly and truly enjoyed time with children. The old Nikki still exists!

 

 

 

We left check in at 2:45 and officially began the climb. The first part was in cultivated land. Nothing special. then was my favorite part of the day - the mountain forest. the whole thing was wicked lush with sun peaking in through the shade. The temperature was perfect, the pace slow and the incline barely noticeable. Samuel and I spoke of the days to come and he said that I looked fit and he was sure I would make it to the top. Hearing that felt good. Even if he does say it to everyone. The whole 2 1/2  hours of today was really easy. I was told to slow down twice (didn't think that would happen). I didn't need any breaks and only felt out of breath once. And then the mountain became visible. I arrived at camp not tired at all, surrounded by kind Tanzanians whose company I enjoy, the only hiker on the trail/at camp and completely happy and at peace. I signed the registry - the guy said I looked strong and able (another compliment!) - and we talked about how much we love Americans. Yes we do. I was just given hot water and soap to wash up and tea/popcorn to snack on. People are making me dinner. The sun is setting, the mountain is calling me. Life is wonderful. This is exactly what I need  right now. I keep thinking of home (and talking about Andrea to my guide) thinking of what everyone else is doing right now.

 

 

 

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I just finished my 1,749th candlelit dinner for one. So much food. I was instructed to eat as much as possible because I may lose my appetite at higher altitudes. That'd be a first! I had cucumber soup, fried fish, cabbage, vegetable sauce, potatoes, bread, bananas and tea. All delicious. And served to me in my tent. Tomorrow's a long day - Samuel came to tell me our program. I think he's disappointed that I want to go the long way. But he said they all love me and will do whatever they can to make my Tanzanian trip memorable and perfect. Ethiopians tell me all the time that they love me, but for some reason Samuel's comment made me feel great. I'm on some kind of high tonight. After dinner I stepped outside my tent. Holy shit there are a lot of stars! I'd say even more than that one night in New Zealand. I had to stop and stare for a few minutes congratulating nature on another perfect backdrop to life. If it wasn't so cold I'd still be otu there. Since then I changed into my expensive LL Bean expedition wear. Officially a good purchasing decision. I'm warmer already. I guess now the only thing left to do is curl up for an early night. I'll go to sleep with a smile on my face. I know it's going to get a lot harder and maybe even miserable, bur for now I just want to enjoy this bliss and real, pure peace and happiness.