March 27, 2012
I arrived at my second camp, Kikelewa Caves, about an hour ago. No spectacular views of the twin peaks of Kilimanjaro, but something really wild. At this camp there's no check in, no people working. Samuel, Gabriel, Shorty, Daniel and I could be the only people in the world right now if I didn't know any better. There's water near by and the occasional raven or little brown bird, but otherwise it's prehistoric looking moorland with a few senecios scattered and these little yellow flowers and white-ish plants (both are helichrysums). Today began at 6:30. I woke up from a crazy dream about an old lady who joined my hiking group and ruined the trip with her crazy. I was glad to see she didn't exist when I awoke. Breakfast was porridge, eggs, cucumber, bread with PB & honey and some papaya. Followed, of course, by tea. I was given hot water to wash up, and as I was packing the porters builed and filled up my water bottles. At 8:00 Samuel and i set off. We walked for a bit - not strenuous at all, then he stopped to tell a few stories of his time studying environment and wildlife at university (paid for by a former hiker from Minnesota). During year 2 he had to do a 4 day survival course on the north side of Kilimanjaro. Everyone's least favorite part of the program. He was dropped off with only matches and a knife and was left to fend for himself. Being the rainy season, the matches weren't very helpful and hunting is scarce anyway. There aren't any berries either so he just didn't eat for a few days. Fortunately, the rainy season meant water was available so he wasn't completely screwed. He made his own shelter and survived a terrible few days. This year a student managed to start a fire- and with wind, dry climate and very flammable shrubbery he took a good chunk of the moorlands with it. Needless to say, he failed. Another practical portion of the environment and wildlife program, strangely enough, is a hunting safari (if you aren't in the national parks everything is fair game). In groups of 6 they had to go to this huge region and catch whatever possible, but the real assignment was to kill a lion. His group caught an elephant, zebra, buffalo and a few other things (the meat went to the nearby villages, the skins were stuffed to be presented to the professor). After a couple days of hunting, his group came to a group of buffaloes acting like there was a predator around (sending look outs, recon missions, hiding the females and babies). Sure enough, there was a pride of 3 lions stalking the buffalo. After some planning his group went in for the kill. they began with the best shot of the group. He was so nervous he missed (guess Hemingway knew what he was talking about!). The two other young men also shot and missed. They gave one of the women the gun. She was scared to even try because if the men couldn't do it then certainly she couldn't (what!?). The guys cajoled her into taking her shot. It seemed like she missed, but the lion was acting strange. She shot again and got the second lion right in the heart. The third lion ran away, and the group moved in, finished them off, and packed up. After that big win they got lost and had to wait for signs of other human life to be rescued from the large expanse (radios and GPS didn't work. silly technology). when they returned they got commended for their performance and the young woman who killed two lions became a bit of a legend and now works for the ministry in charge of hunting. Pretty big deal, I'm told.
After these stories and the porters passed us with tons of gear on their heads, we kept walking. The way got decently steep and we gained about 1000m of altitude today in 6 hours. Along the way we found lizards and chameleons, cute mice/hyrexes and a bunch of wicked annoying flies. We went at a slow but steady pace, stopping briefly to enjoy the views of Kenya, the cloud layers and to take a few pictures. After about 3 hours we stopped at the 2nd cave for lunch. This is where we could have stopped for the day, had I not chosen to go the long way. I had a packed lunch of chicken, bread, biscuits, oranges, banana and a hard boiled egg. While we were eating a cloud floated by through us, like when an airplane passes through a cloud. Unlike skydiving through a cloud it wasn't painful, it was just kind of chilly. I imagine that is what it would feel like if a ghost went through you. When I finished eating I went to check out the cave, took some pictures, and got back on the trail. The 3 hour addition we did today, according the the guide book, is the way to go. And what was I going to do alone at the camp from noon to bed time anyway? Best to keep moving, see some more and not just do the minimum. The way was quite rocky, at some points huge rocks which, uphill or downhill, are a challenge for those of us with little legs. Once in a while we had to cross mud pits where there was some ground water. The walk itself wasn't difficult, just the footing was a bit tricky. By the end I was getting tired. My legs aren't fatigued yet thought, and so far no signs of altitude sickness. I feel good about my performance today. When we got to the camp at 2:30 the tents were already pitched and the porters were making me popcorn and roasting peanuts. I had my snack, washed up and now I'm just hanging out breating the fresh, thinning air. I'm still feeling happy and in love with the world. But I'm getting cold so I may go hide in my tent for a bit. Wish I could play cards. Probably the only con to hiking alone. I should have brought a book. I thought I'd feel to ill to read, but I'm feeling great.
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I just finished dinner. Beef, carrot soup and a boat load of pasta with that great veggie sauce. Appetite is still intact. I think I'm going to gain weight on this hike!
I stayed in my tent most of the evening. So cold out. Rethinking Alaska. Gabriel had the brilliant idea to make a hot water bottle from my left over tea water and I'm feeling much warmer for the moment. Samuel came in for tomorrow's briefing. Same schedule. The hike tomorrow will be steep but only 3-4 hours to Mawenzi Tarn Camp. I'll have the afternoon to explore the less traveled of Kilimanjaro's twin peaks.
The clouds cleared just before sundown. I noticed when I braved the elements to go pee. Wish I had a po po. It's probably a trick of perspective, but from this camp the peaks look less massive. We covered about 9k and 950 vertical meters today- maybe I'm just making progress and that's why the mountain is less intimidating. I still have zero symptoms of AMS. Samuel says the team is impressed by me and happy because I'm easy to be with. He says that most people at least have a headache at this altitude, some even start vomiting. I feel GREAT and so glad I put in all those hours at the gym. I definitely don't feel like I've been hiking for two days. I'm feeling confident that I'm going to make it to Uhuru. My pace is average and I don't feel tired yet. Day 2 and life is still wonderful. Lala Salama!
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